Planting Design: How to Arrange Your First Garden
When you think of a vegetable garden, what comes to mind? More often than not, people tend to think of neat little rows, with individual types of plants in each row. This method may be productive and functional, but it isn't always interesting to look at, nor is it ideal for the plants. Long rows of the same type of plant often invite more trouble from insects and diseases. This approach also leaves the bare ground open to weed seeds, and lets water evaporate quickly.
Unless your garden is very large (and it shouldn't be, if this is your first garden!) and requires the use of intensive rototilling each year, rows do not need to be perfectly straight and you can explore materials other than bare soil for the paths. Many gardeners arrange vegetables, flowers and herbs compactly into wider blocks. You can plant the crops more closely, requiring less space overall, which promotes less weeding and watering. These beds are easier to maintain and look attractive. Mulching the paths prevents soil from splashing onto plant surfaces. Heavily mulched paths look terrific, are easy to walk on, reduce moisture loss, and are a convenient surface for wheelbarrow movement. And because you always step on the paths, the soil in the beds remains loose, which further promotes plant health.
Raised Beds
We can't say enough about the importance of soil. (See Soil Basics at our Gardening Resources website.)
You may be concerned about the composition of the soil, particularly if you have an urban location and you're concerned the soil might be contaminated with lead or some other toxin. Or perhaps your soil is exceptionally stony, compact, or shallow, or you know that you have poorly drained soil. In any of these situations, raised beds may be the best method of planting. This approach is particularly good for root crops. Raised beds also dry out and warm quickly in the spring, so you can plant spring crops such as peas and lettuce earlier.
Raised beds are, quite simply, enclosed beds that may be supported or bound by materials such as landscape timbers, cinder blocks or boards, and are filled with high quality commercial soil or soil mixed with well-rotted manure or compost. Untreated cedar is a long-lasting material typically used for supports. Raised beds can also be unsupported, by building up the soil to a depth of six to 12 inches.
Raised beds can be as long as you like, but be sure to make them narrow enough so that you can easily reach the middle - 3 1/2 to 4 feet wide at the most. If your bed is located along a house, shed, or other permanent structure, make the beds no wider than 2 1/2 to 3 feet. If you have more than one bed, leave enough room to work comfortably between them, and to provide room for your wheelbarrow and tools. Line the spaces between the beds with mulch, wood chips, gravel, or a similar material to make the area attractive, keep the weeds out, and prevent the ground from getting muddy. Be sure to provide extra water during dry spells, since raised beds dry out quickly.
Getting Ready
Late summer or fall is an ideal time to begin getting your garden ready for the coming season. Fork in plenty of compost or well-rotted animal manure, and/or plant a cover crop. (See Improve Your Soil with Cover Crops.) Test the pH and amend accordingly. Fall is the best time to add materials such as lime or sulfur, since pH adjusts slowly. Water soluble nitrogen, however, is wasted if added in the fall. Slow release forms of nitrogen, such as dried blood, can be worked into the soil in the spring.
© Copyright Cornell University.
When you think of a vegetable garden, what comes to mind? More often than not, people tend to think of neat little rows, with individual types of plants in each row. This method may be productive and functional, but it isn't always interesting to look at, nor is it ideal for the plants. Long rows of the same type of plant often invite more trouble from insects and diseases. This approach also leaves the bare ground open to weed seeds, and lets water evaporate quickly.
Unless your garden is very large (and it shouldn't be, if this is your first garden!) and requires the use of intensive rototilling each year, rows do not need to be perfectly straight and you can explore materials other than bare soil for the paths. Many gardeners arrange vegetables, flowers and herbs compactly into wider blocks. You can plant the crops more closely, requiring less space overall, which promotes less weeding and watering. These beds are easier to maintain and look attractive. Mulching the paths prevents soil from splashing onto plant surfaces. Heavily mulched paths look terrific, are easy to walk on, reduce moisture loss, and are a convenient surface for wheelbarrow movement. And because you always step on the paths, the soil in the beds remains loose, which further promotes plant health.
Raised Beds
We can't say enough about the importance of soil. (See Soil Basics at our Gardening Resources website.)
You may be concerned about the composition of the soil, particularly if you have an urban location and you're concerned the soil might be contaminated with lead or some other toxin. Or perhaps your soil is exceptionally stony, compact, or shallow, or you know that you have poorly drained soil. In any of these situations, raised beds may be the best method of planting. This approach is particularly good for root crops. Raised beds also dry out and warm quickly in the spring, so you can plant spring crops such as peas and lettuce earlier.
Raised beds are, quite simply, enclosed beds that may be supported or bound by materials such as landscape timbers, cinder blocks or boards, and are filled with high quality commercial soil or soil mixed with well-rotted manure or compost. Untreated cedar is a long-lasting material typically used for supports. Raised beds can also be unsupported, by building up the soil to a depth of six to 12 inches.
Raised beds can be as long as you like, but be sure to make them narrow enough so that you can easily reach the middle - 3 1/2 to 4 feet wide at the most. If your bed is located along a house, shed, or other permanent structure, make the beds no wider than 2 1/2 to 3 feet. If you have more than one bed, leave enough room to work comfortably between them, and to provide room for your wheelbarrow and tools. Line the spaces between the beds with mulch, wood chips, gravel, or a similar material to make the area attractive, keep the weeds out, and prevent the ground from getting muddy. Be sure to provide extra water during dry spells, since raised beds dry out quickly.
Getting Ready
Late summer or fall is an ideal time to begin getting your garden ready for the coming season. Fork in plenty of compost or well-rotted animal manure, and/or plant a cover crop. (See Improve Your Soil with Cover Crops.) Test the pH and amend accordingly. Fall is the best time to add materials such as lime or sulfur, since pH adjusts slowly. Water soluble nitrogen, however, is wasted if added in the fall. Slow release forms of nitrogen, such as dried blood, can be worked into the soil in the spring.